A few days ago, I wrote an introductory post about our recent trip back to far West Texas, specifically about our overnight stop at Monahans State Park entitled “Camping in the Sand.” This is the second post in this series that I would like to share about far West Texas, a unique and beautiful area that I just adore, specifically about Balmorhea State Park and a magnificent drive on Texas Highway 17 between Balmorhea and Fort Davis.
Feel free to see any photos in a larger size by clicking on them.
We left Monahans State Park around 10:30 am and drove west on I-20 to the Flying J in Pecos for gasoline. The huge Flying J is a great place to stop if traveling by RV because it is an easy “off-and-on” from I-20, and it has two dedicated gasoline lanes just for RVs, along with separate lanes for larger diesel rigs and trucks. They also sell propane, which is located in the left RV lane, and they have a big convenience store and a restaurant on site. After filling up the gas tanks in both the RV and the car, we left the Flying J, turned south on two-lane Texas highway 17, and proceeded to drive south toward the mountains in the distance.
Our next stop was Balmorhea State Park, just four miles past Balmorhea. The tiny town of Balmorhea is home to this small and unique park that draws visitors year-round to its natural warm spring swimming pool that is large enough to hold many happy kids and adults at the same time, but in the winter there are far fewer visitors. We opted to enjoy a leisurely lunch break in the park, since we could get in for free with our Texas State Parks pass, and we also wanted to show the park to our son for the first time. The park is located right on Highway 17, with the park entrance literally just off the road on the left just a few miles out of Balmorhea.
Official You Tube Video – TPWD
As I mentioned, the main attraction at Balmorhea State Park is the historic San Solomon Springs pool. It is a huge spring-fed pool with a natural rock bottom that was constructed by the CCC, and it remains a constant temperature year-round of about 72 to 76 degrees. Twenty million gallons of fresh spring water flow up from the pool springs each day, and subsequently run off into a canal system into the surrounding area. Parts of the pool are as much as 25 feet deep, and a few adults were testing out their scuba gear as we strolled around the pool just before lunch. Yes, there are live fish in the pool for both swimmers and scuba divers to enjoy! I took a series of three photographs from the far side of the pool and merged them in Photoshop into the panorama photo shown above, as I could not capture the entire pool in just one photo, even with my wide-angle lens.
The pool house has large restrooms and changing areas for both men and women, as well as a concession stand that is open during the high season. Big trees and picnic tables are nearby, in addition to the day use picnic area on the other side of the building.
The Texas State Historical Marker is posted on the wall just as you enter the pool house area.
According to an article on the park’s website, San Solomon Spring “has provided water to travelers for thousands of years.” It is an interesting article and worth the quick read.
Balmorhea State Park has level RV spaces with some of the nicest covered tables that we’ve seen in any state park, and this park would be a great option for a quick overnight stop, since it is right off of Highway 17. Some sites have water only, some have water and electricity, and some have water, electricity, and cable television. There are also both pull-thru sites and back-in sites. We hope to actually stay here in the RV for at least a night or two on a return trip to the area in warmer weather and finally go swimming here. I love to swim, and that big pool is just “calling my name.” Even though I have a picture of my own below, this picture better shows the RV campground in the non-winter months when things are greener.
The park also has several historic cabins to rent that were built in the 1930’s by the CCC. However, a note was posted in the office that all of the kitchen equipment will be removed from the cabins by April, which will no doubt disappoint some people who have stayed there and enjoyed having a kitchen available, but there are some dining options in Balmorhea, as well as at least one grocery store. The cabins are located in a very pretty area of the park, and they are also adjacent to the RV camping area. Both the cabins and the RV campground are within an easy walk of the pool, too.
These historic cabins sit along a canal that leads to a restored wetland area, also called a cienega. According to the park website, there is an underground window at the cienega to view the underwater wildlife, but we still have not taken the time to check it out while on our stops there.
Lodging options are also available a few miles away in Balmorhea. On my first trip to this area several years ago, I actually stayed in a small motel in Balmorhea for a quick overnight stop when no lodging was available in Fort Davis that night, and I would stay there again, if needed. I learned a valuable lesson on that trip, too. Always, always have a confirmed lodging reservation when visiting Fort Davis. Always. I will never make the mistake of traveling to Fort Davis without a reservation again, even for a campsite.
We parked the RV in the day use area in the park, and we enjoyed dining outside for lunch on one of the covered picnic tables nearby, which had a scenic view of the mountains in the distance and the pool next to us. This area was also a good place to walk Girly Girl and let her stretch her legs, even though she was not permitted in the pool area.
One special memory from our lunch stop here was pulling out the Christmas cookies that were leftover from my holiday baking escapades. After we ate a sandwich, we enjoyed a few cookies as well, especially the lemon cookies which were so amazingly good. We then discussed how to ration the lemon cookies that were left, so that we would have some for the rest of the trip. It was pretty funny, as we had plenty of the other cookies left. The battle for the remaining lemon cookies was officially on! Somehow, we managed to ration the lemon cookies over the next few days, leaving one last cookie for our son to enjoy on his birthday on Saturday. He was quite proud to officially claim that last cookie, and I also took his picture holding his “birthday” cookie.
We have only visited this small park in the winter months on our way to Fort Davis, but I have also seen pictures and videos of it during the warmer, greener months, and it is quite pretty, especially if the area has received some beneficial rains. It is truly a little oasis in the desert. Even in the winter, though, I love the uncrowded beauty of this unique and remote area.
After enjoying an hour-long stop here, we then drove out of the park and back onto Highway 17, straight into the Davis Mountains, over the top of Wild Rose Pass, and on to our destination at Davis Mountains State Park. The drive from Balmorhea to Fort Davis and back is one of the prettiest drives ever, and I look forward to driving that particular stretch of road on every trip. If traveling to this area, I highly recommend that travelers driving either direction from Balmorhea to Fort Davis on Highway 17 make this drive during daylight hours to see the magnificent views. I personally think the best time to make this drive to maximize its scenic beauty is when the sun is high in the sky around noontime to properly illuminate the mountains and unique rock formations all around. It is also beautiful during golden hour just before sunset, but it is also more difficult to see the interesting and unique detail in the mountains. I always love a good sunset drive, though, and this one is pretty epic.
I was driving the car on our most recent trip, so I could not take pictures. Below are some of the pictures of this beautiful drive that I have taken on two previous trips over the past two years, including the somewhat famous view of the mountains from Wild Rose Pass, as seen on the return trip from Fort Davis back to Balmorhea. These pictures can’t begin to do justice to the impressive views, but I gave it my best shot.
Thanks for stopping by and watch for more posts here on this unique and scenic area of Texas!